Few cities in Europe have undergone such an astonishing transformation as Bilbao. Over the last twenty years, it has evolved from a grey industrial city into a cultural metropolis where renowned architects like to leave their mark. Every visit reveals something new to me.
“Puppy” has become a symbol of the city. The huge, colourful flower dog greets visitors in front of the imposing titanium building, resembling a spaceship from the future. Jeff Koons’ Scottish puppy was supposed to be removed after the inauguration year of the Guggenheim Museum in 1997, but due to loud protests, the sculpture remained. Since then, Puppy has firmly become a mascot of the cityscape.
From Ugly Duckling to Beautiful Swan
Bilbao has undergone an exemplary transformation in record time, convincing even skeptics. The transformation was initiated by the construction of the famous Guggenheim Museum. Previously, Bilbao was unattractive to visitors as a dirty industrial and port city. The economic crisis in the seventies led to the closure of large factories and shipyards, plunging the city into mass unemployment for many years.
But Bilbao had a vision. To create jobs, the city needed to be renovated and given a new image. Those in charge placed all their bets on culture. When the Guggenheim Foundation from New York planned a new museum in Europe, Bilbao saw its opportunity. Many thought the candidacy was megalomania, typical of Bilbao. However, the critics were proven wrong. Since the opening of Frank Gehry’s fantastic monumental work, around a million curious visitors from all continents come annually to admire the building. Bilbao has become the flagship of the entire Basque Country.
Combination of Avant-Garde and Tradition
But this was only the beginning of a metamorphosis that continues to this day. Many speak of the “Guggenheim Effect.” Renowned architects have left their mark. British architect Norman Foster built a futuristic-looking metro. The glass tubes growing out of the ground are affectionately called “Fosteritos” by the locals. Philippe Starck transformed an old wine warehouse into an original cultural centre. Santiago Calatrava built a modern bridge and an airport in the shape of a dove of peace. And soon, a dormant peninsula is set to be developed according to the plans of the late Zaha Hadid. Not to forget the new San Mamés football stadium of Athletic Bilbao. It has been expanded and adapted to the avant-garde cityscape. Athletic fans call it “La Catedral,” as it is certainly more visited than the real Santiago Cathedral in the old town.
The elegant city centre and the old town with its narrow streets, the “Siete Calles” (Seven Streets), the classical Arriaga Theatre, and the Art Nouveau train station on the other side of the river create a beautiful contrast to avant-garde Bilbao.
