The clocks in Santo Antão tick pleasantly slowly. The waves break on the cliffs, the black sand glistens in the sun. Like confetti, the ten islands of Cape Verde lie in the middle of the Atlantic, between South America and Africa. On this pristine volcanic archipelago, one can live relaxed in unspoilt nature. Music and laughter are as present as the sun in the sky.
Off the coast of Senegal, just under six flight hours from Luxembourg, are the Cape Verde Islands, 570 kilometers off the coast of West Africa. The volcanic islands do not possess any extractable resources. The agricultural land amounts to only 37,000 hectares, 9% of the total area. The wealth of Cape Verde? The year-round mild climate thanks to the trade winds, the untouched beaches, the friendly population, and personalized tourism.
Arriving on the island of Sal captivates us. The view takes our breath away: Ochre-yellow rocks and white sandy beaches stand out against a deep blue to lagoon-green Atlantic. And then the heat hits us: The thermometer fluctuates between 25 and 30 °C, dropping to around 20 °C at night and in winter.
The island used to thrive on salt exports (hence the name Sal) and fishing. With its 350 sunny days a year, Sal has now consciously turned to the future, focusing on tourism and has convinced the European clientele. On the 30 by 12 km flat island, water sports enthusiasts will be fully satisfied: Diving, windsurfing, kitesurfing, and bodyboarding are on the agenda.
Small Islands, Big Differences
Cape Verde consists of two island groups, the Barlavento islands, “above the wind” in the north — Boa Vista, Sal, São Nicolau, Santa Luzia, São Vicente, and Santo Antão — and the Sotavento islands, “below the wind” in the south — Brava, Fogo, Santiago, and Maio.
Each island has its own charm, its own soul, its own landscapes, and its own culture. The Cape Verdean Creole sounds as melodic as the Brazilian language but is less harsh and rough than Portuguese.
Aside from Sal, Boa Vista (with direct flights to and from Luxembourg) and Maio are flat and very dry islands. Boa Vista (Beautiful View), the easternmost island of the archipelago, located just 450 kilometers off the coast of Senegal, resembles the Sahara with its dizzying dunes. The almost uninhabited, untouched beaches of Maio are a true haven for relaxation. The other islands are more mountainous and have denser vegetation.
On Fogo, the active volcano with its 2829 m high summit is very popular with hikers. From Sal, you can explore São Vicente. Only 2% of the arid land can be used for agriculture, and water scarcity has been strongly felt in the past. The desalination plants are too small to irrigate more land.
Sao Vincente was discovered on January 22, 1462, the feast day of Saint Vincent, by the Portuguese Diogo Afonso. In Mindelo, the main town of the island and the second-largest city in the archipelago with 72,000 inhabitants, the colorful colonial houses give the city a very British flair.
The Barefoot Diva
“Where did Cesária live?” tourists ask repeatedly. And there is always someone willing to lead them to the house of the famous singer who passed away in 2011, not far from the Governor’s Palace. She was the one who made traditional music Morna internationally known, a blend of Portuguese Fado and Argentine Tango. The “barefoot diva
