Since René Mathieu left “La Distillerie” at Bourglinster Castle at the start of the year and ushered in a new era at “FIELDS” in Findel – reclaiming both his red and green Michelin stars in April – the original gourmet restaurant has stood empty. Empty? Not quite. The castle’s kitchen is still very much in use – for Brasserie Côté Cour. Here too, the menu is penned by the exceptional chef himself – offering a more accessible, yet no less precise, expression of the Mathieu signature.
With the aim of putting this promise to the test, I made my way to Bourglinster Castle on Thursday, 22 May – a very short trip for me as a resident of the village. Just a few minutes on foot, up the old cobbled path, accompanied by the mild early summer weather. Those arriving by car will appreciate the ample parking: there are always spaces available directly in front of the castle or on a spacious nearby car park.
After a quick obligatory stop on the castle bridge – a few Instagram shots for my companion – we headed into the Brasserie, clearly signposted with a handcrafted metal sign.
Inside, we’re welcomed by a friendly, professional and discreet service team. The terrace – a true highlight in good weather, small, elevated, with views of the castle walls – remains closed today for lack of sunshine. The dining room itself is rustic, with warm lighting and simple décor – a fitting backdrop that doesn’t detract from the main attraction: the menu.
Two paths – one philosophy
Even before we’ve placed our order, the first amuse-bouches arrive: charcoal crackers with a fermented walnut emulsion – a beautifully composed introduction. The lightly bitter roasted notes of the crackers are perfectly balanced by the nutty, umami depth of the cream. René Mathieu’s signature is immediately apparent: complex flavours delivered without any gimmickry. Then, a small extra: a potato soup with aquafaba and toasted hemp seeds – mild, nutty, with a well-judged texture.
There are two menus to choose from: a fully plant-based option or the “Flora & Fauna” menu, which adds animal-based elements at select points – in our case, egg and fish. We opt for the latter – not out of disregard for plant-based cuisine, but in pursuit of a broader sensory exploration.
The wine pairing comes warmly recommended by the sommelier-trained service – and rightly so. The Ventoux “Passe Colline” 2024, a crisp white with mineral freshness, accompanies the next course: a small nettle and chlorophyll quiche in forsythia oil. Delicately crafted in appearance, subtle in flavour, but with a clean focus on vegetal notes and gentle acidity.
Next comes the first main course – and the evening’s highlight: oven-baked asparagus with black oil, sautéed mushrooms, œuf parfait, vegetable jus and an intensely flavoured asparagus cream. This is René Mathieu’s philosophy in full: vegetables are not the sideshow, they are centre stage. Depth, freshness, creaminess and light sweetness unfold in perfect harmony. Nothing is overdone – each element plays a specific role in the composition.
Then follows the North Sea cod with roasted hazelnuts and concentrated vegetable jus. The fennel – fresh, aniseed, with bite – is a surprise star, far from any bland tea-like cliché. A Luxembourgish Riesling accompanies the dish: cool, bell-clear, a vibrant counterpoint to the richness on the plate.
Dessert? Make that two.
The first: woodruff ice cream inside a chocolate sphere, which melts under a pour of hot chocolate – a dramatic yet never excessive moment. The second: violet ice cream on strawberry compote with a crystallised sugar crust – floral, fruity, playful, yet always controlled.
To round things off, a potpourri of sweet treats – herbal bonbons, dried flowers, little cakes – a tribute to the woods, meadows and gardens that so deeply inspire Mathieu’s work.
Conclusion
For €75 (or €65 for the plant-based menu), Brasserie Côté Cour offers a gastronomically ambitious experience clearly shaped by René Mathieu’s style: aromatic precision, intelligent use of seasonal and regional ingredients, without theatrical excess. For those who have hesitated at the price point of “FIELDS” or are looking for an accessible introduction to Mathieu’s cuisine, this is an excellent opportunity. And for aficionados of his culinary signature, the Brasserie offers a pleasantly relaxed alternative – especially when the terrace is open.
Brasserie Côté Cour
Bourglinster Castle
Open: Wednesday to Sunday, lunch & dinner
Menu: €65 (Plantes) / €75 (Flora & Fauna)
Instagram: @brasseriecotecour
