The Rollingergrund institution hasn’t said its last word. The charming restaurant reopened on October 30th, with a menu supervised by French two-star chef Philippe Mille. Here’s the before-and-after of this new establishment.
Since the beginning of 2024, the Rollingergrund has lost a beloved culinary destination: L’Opéra. The person behind the renovation is no stranger to the kitchen world. “I used to represent Electrolux kitchen equipment in Luxembourg. In the early 2000s, I delivered all the equipment to the restaurant, which was already called L’Opéra,” recalls Bruno Dogné.
A Two-Star Chef
When the establishment, which had changed management over time, closed down, Dogné saw an opportunity. A gastronomy enthusiast and now a real estate developer, he decided to take on the project of reopening L’Opéra and restoring its former charm. “To do so, I teamed up with the two-star chef Philippe Mille to bring a high-quality menu.” The renowned former chef of Domaine des Crayères in Reims, who has now opened his own restaurant, Arbanne, in the Champagne region, will oversee the menus of the new L’Opéra. However, “we’re not aiming for a fine dining restaurant, but a beautiful brasserie with good, accessible products, in line with Michelin’s Bib Gourmand recommendations,” explains Bruno Dogné.
–> Chef Mille has crafted a menu that honors tradition: “We’re offering classic brasserie dishes that celebrate fine ingredients through expertly crafted sauces, partnering closely with Luxembourg producers,” explains the chef, who holds both the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France title and Bocuse Bronze medal. “From eggs meurette in Luxembourg red wine to our signature vol-au-vent, veal sweetbreads with crayfish, and sea bass in Riesling sauce… finishing with indulgent chocolate mousse and Crêpes Suzette,” Mille enthuses. His philosophy: “Excellence in ingredients, passion in preparation, and generosity in serving.” The kitchen is helmed by Jean-Marc Hazée, who collaborated on the menu and brings rich experience from Belgium and Luxembourg’s finest establishments, including Beaux-Arts, Kirsch, and Le Presbytère.
“Keeping the Skeleton”
The welcoming space is currently undergoing a complete renovation. “We had to bring everything up to code, as regulations have changed a lot over the past twenty years. Electrical systems, plumbing, windows, and more””we’re keeping the skeleton and refurbishing everything,” says the entrepreneur.
Since June, the beautiful early 20th-century building has been under construction. “We’re aiming to open by mid-October,” he says confidently. Even if, at first glance, it seems like the rooms still need a lot of work, the expert assures: “All the major work has been done, now it will move quickly.”
–> The October 30th opening stands as a testament to determination, achieved despite extensive renovations, kitchen installations, and staffing challenges. The main door frame arrived just a week before opening, with final paint touches applied the evening before.
A Sunny Terrace
Upon arrival, the former terrace has been completely dismantled to make way for the construction site. It will be replanted with boxwood, and a light and natural-toned terrace will host about 60 seats, benefiting from ideal sunlight for outdoor dining.
–> The inviting terrace stands ready with its full complement of tables, chairs, and greenery, awaiting only finishing touches.
The ground floor will accommodate 35 guests. “We’re keeping the original ambiance by repainting the walls in black. The large counter will stay, and we’ll arrange tables between the two rooms,” one of which is divided by beautiful small-paned glass doors. To the left of the entrance, a cosy lounge will be perfect for an aperitif or coffee.
–> Inside, the dining room has been transformed with sophisticated black walls. Large-scale works by artist Frank Jons grace every floor, creating an ambiance that perfectly balances contemporary style with warmth.
Climbing a small staircase brings you to the upper level.
95 Indoor Seats
The existing kitchens on the first floor are still in place. “We won’t be changing much,” says the former kitchen equipment specialist. On this level, a dining room with an open ceiling revealing the upstairs railings will offer 30 seats.
On the second floor, another dining room, featuring a beautiful stone fireplace, will seat 30 guests and provide a view of the floor below through balustrades. “We’ll replace the chandeliers and install lighting that hangs down to the first floor,” Dogné details.
Soft lighting, chevron-patterned floors, exposed stone, mouldings, glass doors, a fireplace, balustrades, narrow staircases, a terrace, boxwood, a quality chef””everything is coming together! But we’ll have to wait a few more weeks to experience the ambiance of this new Luxembourg dining spot.
–> The elegant yet welcoming atmosphere was achieved right on schedule, despite last-minute hurdles: “I spent an entire day this week resolving an electrical meter issue!” notes entrepreneur Bruno Dogné, well-versed in construction challenges.
–> During KACHEN’s visit on Friday, October 25th, final touches to the intimate salon and stairwell were still underway. Updated photographs coming soon.
Photos: KACHEN
