After the recent announcement of the closure of the Michelin-starred restaurant Pavillon Eden Rose, another star of Luxembourg’s culinary scene is dimming: La Villa de Camille et Julien.
After five years in business, Camille Tardif and her husband, chef Julien Lucas, have made the heart-wrenching decision to close their restaurant in Polfermillen. In an exclusive interview, Julien Lucas shared the reasons behind this choice and shed light on the challenges facing fine dining in Luxembourg.
Economic Reality
The first question that comes to mind is why a restaurant with such a stellar reputation, backed by a young and motivated team, has to close.
“The reputation is indeed something we’ve fought for over the past five years,” Lucas explained. The restaurant earned a Michelin star in 2022, an accolade many consider the pinnacle of a gastronomic career. Yet, the star alone was not enough to sustain the business financially. “The economic situation is becoming increasingly difficult. You can sense that people — I’m not saying they’re avoiding fine dining — but they’re paying more attention to their purchasing power, which has undeniably been affected.”
The rising cost of living has also shifted customers’ priorities. “People don’t necessarily focus on fine dining anymore. And if they do, it’s either abroad or at places that are perhaps more established or have been around longer.” This lack of consistent visibility made it difficult for La Villa to maintain steady occupancy, despite the exceptional quality of its cuisine.
Rising operational costs, including staffing, energy, and food, compounded the problem. “Both personnel and electricity costs keep going up. At the same time, post-Covid, the government is becoming less tolerant, and the pressure is becoming harder and harder to manage,” Lucas said. Despite all efforts, the mounting strain became overwhelming. “You could say we simply decided to stop and turn to other projects. That’s basically it. We’re staying open to the market, but I think it’s time to start a new chapter.”
A Crisis in Recruitment
Beyond economic factors, Lucas pointed to another critical issue in Luxembourg: the labor market. “What motivates someone to come work in the gastronomy sector in Luxembourg today? The problem with fine dining is that we work lunch and dinner shifts,” he explained. Unlike brasseries, fine dining establishments don’t have the volume to allow for split shifts with two separate teams, making them less attractive workplaces.
The skyrocketing cost of housing in Luxembourg only exacerbates the problem. “Rents have increased so much that people can’t afford to live here. Even if we offer a good salary of €2,800, it’s just not enough,” Lucas noted. This has led to significant staffing shortages. “Half my team has resigned, and I can’t find replacements.”
This labor shortage reflects a broader challenge within Luxembourg’s culinary industry. “Today, the menu prices for Michelin-starred restaurants here range between €130 and €180. But that’s not enough to cover the rising costs or offer higher wages. I’d love to tell a 26-year-old, ‘I’ll pay you €3,500,’ but it’s simply not feasible.”
Lucas also expressed frustration about systemic inequalities. “It feels like the big players get less hassle, while the small ones get crushed. As soon as you have minor debts, you’re either threatened with liquidation or taken to court. It’s impossible. We’re here trying to build something.”
A Bittersweet Farewell
Despite these challenges, Lucas reflected fondly on the positive moments of the past five years. “These five years were full of good times. Of course, entrepreneurship comes with its difficulties, which can be extremely tough, but there were also magical moments,” he said. He expressed deep gratitude for his loyal team and returning customers. “I had a team in the kitchen and dining room that was incredibly loyal over these five years, and customers who came back time and time again.”
Support from within the culinary community also touched Lucas deeply. He recounted a conversation with Henri Ruppert, a local winemaker, who told him, “You’re a talented person, and it would be a shame if you left the country.” Lucas admitted that such words had a profound impact on him.
Still, the relentless pressures of running a restaurant took their toll. “I can no longer go to bed and wake up each morning under the weight of letters from the government, the bank… It’s unbearable. It’s unlivable,” he said. This accumulation of stress ultimately led to the decision to sell the restaurant.
As for the future, Lucas and his wife remain open to possibilities, whether in Luxembourg or elsewhere. “We have some ideas, but nothing concrete. The priority is to sell the Villa. Maybe the energy we poured into these difficult moments will pay off somewhere else.” One thing is clear: their passion for gastronomy remains unshaken. “This experience helps you grow. You realize the strength you have within yourself. Now it’s time to move on to something new.”
We wish them all the best in their future endeavours and will keep you informed about their next steps. Until then, bonne chance!
