KACHEN tests: Brasserie Umé

This month, KACHEN invites you to discover a place as surprising as it is delicious: Umé, a Franco-Japanese brasserie tucked away inside the Centre Pompidou-Metz. With an average bill of just €30, it stands out as one of the most affordable museum restaurants in France. In the kitchen, the team led by Michelin-starred chef Charles Coulombeau is on a clear mission: to take diners on a flavourful journey between France and Japan.

A gentle Franco-Japanese fusion

The name Umé refers both to the delicate Japanese plum and the mirabelle – the golden fruit so emblematic of Lorraine. A lovely tribute to two cultures the chef holds close to his heart.

Described as “a brasserie built around sharing, offering a joyful and convivial culinary experience”, Umé is open for lunch only, from Wednesday to Sunday. It serves French cuisine subtly laced with Japanese influences. As chef Coulombeau himself puts it: “We want to surprise people!” — and that’s exactly what they do.

A Minimalist and Intriguing Menu

At Umé, there are no elaborate dish descriptions. Instead, the menu presents a simple list of ingredients – enough to spark curiosity. Fortunately, the smiling, attentive staff are on hand to explain every dish with passion. The best approach? Let them guide you.

Expect dishes like a playful veal blanquette with wasabi (in place of mustard), a daikon rémoulade (using Japanese white radish), or even a matcha-infused île flottante. Each plate is a refined balance between French tradition and Japanese delicacy.

The Japanese inspiration isn’t incidental: Charles Coulombeau spent time working in Japan, and the museum itself was designed by renowned Japanese architect Shigeru Ban.

Nibbles and sharing plates

When it comes to the food itself, every bite is a harmonious blend of sweet and tangy notes, delicate textures and vibrant colours.

To start: try the beef cheek cromesquis with wasabi emulsion, or the chicken karaage served with a rich aïoli-style sauce.

A house favourite ? The devilled egg reinterpreted Japanese-style: marinated Ajitsuke Tamago, lightly acidic, enhanced with anchovy and miso – utterly delicious. And don’t miss the house-made kimchi, ideal for whetting the appetite.

For the main, we went with the panko-crusted chicken: golden, crisp and perfectly seasoned. The side dishes, which change frequently, were a real treat – jasmine rice, parsnip purée, and sautéed potatoes with ginger and fennel. Each one brought something surprising and delightful.

As for dessert, the standout: a passionfruit île flottante, light, airy and bursting with flavour – the perfect end to the meal.

The little extra: exemplary service

From the warm welcome to the careful attention at every stage of the meal, the front-of-house team makes a real difference. Friendly, thoughtful, and always ready to decode the menu or suggest bold pairings, they’re a genuine asset. For anyone unsure where to begin, their guidance is a real comfort — and a pleasure.

Our verdict?

A creative, immersive and accessible culinary experience in a truly special setting. We wholeheartedly recommend the “nibbles and sharing plates” approach – the best way to explore the full range of this inspired menu with friends or family.

And to round off the experience, a visit to the Pompidou-Metz museum before or after lunch is a must.

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