When we visit master distiller Josy Zenner in the small winegrowing village of Schwebsange on the Moselle, he is busy cleaning up after the region’s annual ‘D’Miselerland brennt!’ – Distillers’ Day. It was Zenner himself who, together with five other local distillers, began this now traditional open distilleries day over 14 years ago, to put the spotlight on the craft of distilling and the cultural richness of their distillates.
Josy Zenner firmly believes: “Fruit brandies are an intrinsic part of Luxembourg’s culinary heritage. Our distilling tradition dates as far back as the 18th century, from even before the French Revolution.” The Zenner distillery may always have borne his family name, but for Josy Zenner, “it’s not the name of a company that counts, but the quality of the products it produces.”
Although Zenner is passionate about the distillery, strictly speaking he is first and foremost a winegrower – the family runs a wine estate and, as is tradition, the distillery merely complements its winegrowing business. The tradition of small, independent distilleries was introduced in the 18th century by Austrian Empress Maria Theresa, not only in Austria, but also in parts of southern Germany, Alsace and Luxembourg. It was during this period that Zenner’s ancestors also took up the practice. A system that still exists in Luxembourg today, although the number of distilleries here has fallen sharply – from around 2,000 to just under 40. But as Josy is keen to assure us: “Those distilleries that do remain attach great importance to quality, far more so than in the past.”
Good spirits from the Moselle
Distilling at Zenner is done over a wood fire. Although a more tricky technique, the master distiller has his reasons for keeping to this traditional method, and they are purely practical: “We have a lot of wood waste from our winegrowing business, which we use to generate our own energy. Distilling over wood is also eco-friendly, which is a great added bonus.”
Traditional local fruit varieties are distilled here: apples, pears, plums, Mirabelle plums, cherries, sloes, raspberries and, of course, grapes. Some of the grape brandy produced by Zenner is then matured in wood for 12 years and bottled as ‘Fine des Coteaux de Schengen’, a highlight of the range, comparable to a Cognac, but with far more intense, deliciously fruity flavours, the trademark of all Zenner brandies. The secret? “The fruit has to be fully ripe, almost overripe,” reveals Josy. “We harvest it just before it falls – that’s the only way to get the full flavour out of it.”
A well-proven strategy: With over 35 gold medals from international wine competition ‘Concours Mondial de Bruxelles’, Zenner today enjoys worldwide renown. “With our ‘Fine de Luxembourg’ brand, we’ve successfully made a name for ourselves, in particular on the international market,” he says. Despite this award-winning success, only one thing ultimately matters for Zenner: quality. “Brand names and medals are all well and good, but if people find the product lacking in quality once, they won’t buy it a second time.”
So which is Josy’s favourite product? It’s hard to say: “Every brandy is like a child – they each have their own individual character, but you love them all equally. If I had to name just one, though, it’d have to be a good ‘Marc’. I’m generally a big fan of anything to do with grapes.”
A good drop of the good stuff
Luxembourg’s former foreign minister seemed to be au fait with this top tip when he cooked with friends on German TV: Fruit brandy is not only a great digestif, but also an excellent extra for elevating your dishes. Countless chefs and pâtissiers agree.
Master distiller Zenner shares with us some of his personal favourites: The Kirsch in Black Forest gateau is a classic, of course, but a high-quality cherry brandy can take even the tastiest treat to a new level. Soaking sultanas in ‘Marc’ or ‘Vieux Marc’ is also a great way to add a delicious kick to parfaits. Or how about a scoop of vanilla ice cream with a shot of a fine Mirabelle plum brandy? Sometimes the simplest combinations are the best…
But a drop of brandy can pep up more than just your desserts: Brandies are also perfect for refining dishes usually prepared with white wine, such as risotto and fricassée, as well as fish sauces – in smaller quantities, of course. “A fruit brandy is a concentrate; the fruit flavours are up to ten times more concentrated,” explains Josy. That should ignite the flame of creativity in the kitchen… So, what are you waiting for? Why don’t you see what culinary delights you can cook up with a ‘Marc de Riesling’ – preferably one from Zenner, of course!
Originally published in KACHEN No. 41, Winter 2024.
Distillerie Zenner
42 route du Vin
L-5447 Schwebsange
distillerie-zenner.lu
